Guide To Choosing Your First 3D Printer

Replicator 2.0 by Makerbot

Purchasing your first 3D printer can be an exciting yet difficult decision to make. With a wide array of 3D printers currently on the market boasting a number of different features and price points, it may be hard to decide which printer will be suit your needs. In order to make the most informed possible decision, it is important to take into account the following aspects.

Competency Level

A number of different 3D printers are geared towards different segments of the consumer market, and it is important to assess your skill level before making a purchase. Are you a hobbyist who enjoys working with electrical components and tweaking things, or do would you prefer a printer which work prints out of the box? For those who are more hobbyist minded, the RepRap project is a family of open source developed 3D printers designed to be build with 3D printed objects and simple electronics. If you want a RepRap but don’t want to assemble it yourself, a number of RepRap resellers give you the option of having the printer pre-assembled for an extra fee. For those who are looking for an out of the box solution, I suggest taking a look at the Makerbot Replicator 2.0 (available here on Amazon) or the UP! by PP3DP. Both of these printers come fully assembled and have easy to use software so you can get started printing rather quickly.

Desired Features

RepRap Printrbot

After assessing your skill level with putting electrical components together, you’ll next need to decide the features that you want your printer to have. Are you looking for a single extruder, or a more elaborate printer with multiple extruders (to print multiple colors or use different filaments at once)? Do you plan to print with PLA (If so, I recommend using a printer with a heat bead) or another material? Finally, are you looking for the latest and greatest? Or something that will be cheap and easy to maintain with its own 3D printable parts? After you have a general idea of what kind of features your printing will require, it becomes easier to decide on what 3d printer you want as long as you balance features and price.

Price

The cost to purchase a 3D Printer varies greatly depending on design and whether or not you plan to assemble the printer yourself. Expect to pay anywhere between $300-2500 for a fully working consumer grade 3D printer depending on what type of features you’re looking for.

Software

Modeling an object with Autodesk CAD software

Another aspect to think about with 3D printing is the software you’ll need including slicing software to convert models into a 3D printable format. Some 3D Printers ship with their own proprietary CAD program designed to work with their printer, whereas others such as those in the RepRap family use their own open-source drivers. Some of these programs may only be designed to view and print models, and therefore extra CAD software may be required to make your own objects.

As I’ve demonstrated, it is important to consider all aspects of 3D printing prior to purchasing your own printer. If you do the proper research and discover a printer that suits your needs, it is highly likely that you will have a great print experience.

Common 3D Printer Problems

3D printers are a complex technology, and therefore there are many things that can go wrong while printing 3D objects. Below are some of the most common printing issues and some possible fixes.

Filament Stuck in the Extruder or Print Nozzle

Filament can stuck inside your extruder or print nozzle for a number of reasons including the extruder cooling down (either due to power or mechanical failure) during a print. My 3D printer cleaning guide has a section for removing filament stuck in the print nozzle depending on what type of material you’re printing with.

Object Sticking to the Print Bed

This problem is often caused by failing to use a heated print bed, or by insufficient cleaning. Take a look at my cleaning guide here and clean your print bed to solve the issue.

Print nozzle runs into the object its printing

During the printing of certain objects, your printer may run the print nozzle through your object as if that layer has not been printed, this issue is almost always caused by incorrect calibration of your 3D printer. Re-calibrating your printer should help solve this problem. It can also be caused by attempting to print an object which is too large for your printer.

Objects warp after printing

After printing, your objects may become warped and distorted while cooling down. This is generally caused by certain types of printing filament (ABS is notorious for warping) as well as not using a heated print bed during printing. You can also try switching to a different filament type and see if that addresses the issue.

Basic 3D Printer Maintenance

Keeping your print bed clean will help ensure a quality print

Like every piece of machinery, 3D Printers are no exception when it comes to maintenance. Taking care of your printer and making sure to clean it from time to time can go a long way in extending the life of your unit. Below are some simple steps you can take in order to make sure that your printer is running in tip top shape.

Firstly, make sure to regularly clean your build platform. Sometimes leftover material can accumulate on the build platform rendering subsequent prints more difficult. After every few prints I like to give my print bed a rub down with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol. Alcohol is a solvent and will remove most filament materials from your print bed easily.

Another important part of your printer to pay attention to is the print nozzle, as repeated printing can sometimes run the risk of clogging your nozzle. If you suspect that your nozzle is clogged, remove it from your printer and soak it in either acetone (for ABS) or sodium hydroxide (for PLA) for up to 24 hours. If this still does not remove the clog, you may need to purchase a new print nozzle.

An assortment of 3D print nozzles

If your printer requires it, be sure to calibrate your system from time to time. A well calibrated printer ensures that your objects will be printed in the most accurate way possible. Most 3D printers designed to work out of the box will ship already calibrated, but if you’re building your own 3D printer then it is something you should be aware of.

Also be careful as to how to store your print filament. Some organic materials such as PLA will degrade if they are not stored properly, which can severely impact print quality. If you print with PLA, be sure to take a look at my storage guide.

Following these simple tips on a regular basis will ensure that your 3D printer performs to the best of its ability. If you have any other tips that you’d like to add, feel free to let us know in the comments section!

A Brief Overview Of RepRap Models

An assembled Prusa Mendel

The RepRap project is an ambitious open-source project with the goal of creating an affordable, self-replicating 3D printer. It is one is the oldest and most affordable consumer 3D Printers on the market today, and has several designs to choose from. However, since there are many different RepRap models (each with their own design goals) it can be difficult to sort through all the different options and choose one best suited to your needs. This post intends to serve as a brief introduction to the major types of RepRaps and their major differences. All types of RepRap printers can be built from scratch using a selection of widely available parts. In addition, a number of 3D printing retailers offer pre-assembled RepRaps for an additional fee.

Prusa Mendel (Iteration 2)

One of the most popular of the RepRap models, the Prusa Mendel Iteration 2 replaces the older generation Prusa Mendel design (Iteration 1), and comes with several notable improvements including:

• Enlarged print area, smaller machine size
• Lighter and more portable than the first iteration
• Improved constraint on the z-axis to eliminate jamming
• Easier to assemble
• Better axis efficiency

Using standard infill settings, the Mendel has a 15.0 cm³ per hour solid extrusion rate (which is equivalent to a built volume rate of 19.0 cm³ per hour) with 3mm filament. A Prusa Mendel costs approximately $520 USD to assemble, and although easier to put together than a Darwin, it can still be fairly tricky and requires some experience in working with machinery. Additionally, the Prusa Mendel also has the ability to be turned into a tri-color model with three extruders. The Mendel has an 8″x8″ build platform area.

Prusa i3

A wood frame Prusa i3

The third iteration of the RepRap Prusa is an improvement over the past two designs and is actively being developed by RepRap developer Prusajr. The major improvements over version 2 are:

• An improved frame rigidity (to prevent x axis backlash)
• Parametric files for multiple size bearings or bushings
• Easier to assemble than the i2

The i3 can use two different types of print bed (single sheet frame or a box style frame). Although they achieve the same effect, the single sheet requires specialized tools to work with, whereas the box frame is easier to work with. You can also use two or more extruders with the i3, allowing you to print single objects with different colors and materials  It costs approximately $450 in parts to build a Prusa i3 although many 3D printing companies offer pre-assembled Prusa i3 kits for an additional fee.

MendelMax

The MendelMax

Based on the popular Prusa Mendel design, the MendelMax adds a larger print bed and has big improvements in rigidity over the Prusa Mendel for a slightly ($80) higher price than the regular Mendel. The MendelMax has a working build area of 9″x10″x”7″ and uses a new frame design to make it stronger. It costs approximately $600 to build a working MendelMax.

Printrbot

The simplistic Printrbot

Designed to be the simplest and most affordable 3D printer on the market, the Printrbot comes with the option to use either 6″x6″x6″ (regular), 8″x8″x8″ (pro), or  4″x4″x4″ (Jr) build platform sizes. With its simplistic design and a 101 part count, the Printrbot can be built for as little as $400 USD.

This guide should cover most major RepRap models, and acts are a brief introduction to the world of self-replicating 3D printing. If you currently have access to a 3D printer, you can models for most RepRap parts here on Thingverse.

Calculating The Cost Of 3D Printing

UP! 3D Printer with filament

Although a 3D printer can be a great investment, many people are curious to know exactly how much it costs to print out objects with a 3D printer. Although it is difficult to determine an exact cost, in my experience there is a relatively accurate method to get a rough estimate on how much a 3D print job should run you by calculating the weight of your object.

Firstly, you’ll need to figure out the cost per gram of your filament. To do so, divide the total cost of your filament by its weight (in grams). For example, if you purchased 1KG of PLA filament for $20, your cost per gram would be 20/1000 = $0.02.

Next, you’ll need to determine the weight of the object that you want to print. Some 3D printer models such as PP3D’s UP! come with software that tells you how much material will be used, but if yours doesn’t you can alwats use the program KISSlicer.

Laywoo-D3, a special type of wood filament

Finally, once you determine the mass of the object to be printed, multiply the mass by the cost per gram of your filament. For a 400 gram object and my $0.02/gram filament, it would cost me 400 * .02 = $8 of filament to print the object.

In my experience, this method is the quickest and easiest way to determine the cost of a 3D object prior to printing. Also keep in mind that you may want to run a print a second time, so when buying filament for your projects be sure to keep a margin of error.

How To Store PLA Reels

Organic and non-toxic, PLA is one of the best types of material to print with. However, if you’re like me and have several reels of PLA, then you must take care to store them properly. Improperly stored PLA can dry out, and then produce a slight popping sound when being printed, and this process can cause cosmetic problems with your printed object. If you don’t plan on using a reel of PLA within a week or so, then I recommend building the following PLA “humidor” to store your reels (keep in mind that areas with low humidty levels won’t experience as fast spoilage as those in higher humidity environments). What you’ll need to make one is the following:

• Air tight file archive box
• Silica gel desiccant packets
• Gallon size Ziploc bags

Silica Dessicant

To store the reel of PLA, place each roll into a Ziploc bag, and put a silica packet into each bag. Then, place a packet into the file box as well as all your Ziploc bags. This should keep your PLA at a constant humidity level until use, and will prevent it from going bad.